![]() ![]() ![]() It allows users to get a precise coolant temperature measurement and to fine-tune the radiator fan speed for an optimal balance between acoustics and performance. if you have an issue there you crawl it to the source.EK-Loop Connect - Temperature Plug Sensor is an NTC (negative temperature coefficient) coolant temperature sensor. Standard tests like a radiator pressure test and fan check are a given. something like a jeep cherokee may go 20 years on the OEM radiator if the coolant PH is correct. i still have my ASE cooling system test book on the shelf behind me and there are specific tests for specific reasons but the c4 and c5 are two cars that need time interval radiator replacement if you want to stay running in the cooler end of the range. you can't see scaling and you can't see reduced heat transfer. there is no standard test to check for cooling system heat transfer in a radiator. Your ignorance just irritates me which is why i'm being a bit brash. why you would suggest someone who does actually maintain their cars not touch your shows a lot about what you do with YOUR car a new ac delco radiator is under 200 shipped via amazonĪnd you can pound sand about the touching your car comment. The c5 sucks a lot of debris into the radiator and it's a major bear to try and get it out. It's not throwing parts, it's standard maintenance.which most car owners neglect Isn't that how they get rich? Throw parts at it rather than identifying the real cause.Ĭertainly glad you'll never get a chance to touch my car.fuse doesn't have an expected running life You must work for a Stealership and are a plant here on the Forum. If I have any further trouble this summer, Ill try the reverse blow with a water wand, as I hear that may work even better then air.Īnd if his problem is a 50 cent fuse preventing the fans from running, he spends $500 for lots of parts, then many hours installing those parts, and discovers he still has the problem. As soon as I start moving again, right back down to 195 ballpark or so. ![]() Now it runs 195 on the highway and when moving and shoots up to 220 in slow traffic. After that I just topped off the overflow tank, as that was about 1/4 full only at that point. I kept it clean by using an extension tube (36inch) connected to the front bleed port crossover tube outlet, with a rag under the connection, and ran that down to a catch pan for the coolant. I then air bled any possible air in the coolant heads area by removing the front throttle body coolant tubing from the front head bleed port bypass tube and let about a full quart of fluid come out. I probably got almost a half gallon of debris junk out of this total. After the second reverse blow, everything was pretty clean. I then used a toothbrush taped to an extension, to gently brush the front side of both the rad and AC condensor to get all sticky debris off the them, and reblow it again from the backside. You can then pull your plastic fans shroud back by hand to just give enough clearance to get this wand behind your radiator to blow out as well. This will get you access with this extended wand to get behind your AC condenser and blow all debris forward. Then remove your air intake tubing in front of the throttle body and pull the top plastic piece off the radiator. You can also rotate it so the right angle bend is at the angle you need to get the wand fully down into the areas you need to blow out. (EDIT): This wand also extends to double the length by loosening the fitting and the inner tube pulls out. I cut if off right below the 45 bend and further bent it to 90degrees in my vise so there is maybe less then 1/4 inch after the 90* bend. I blew out a lot of thick road debris, pollen, air blocking type stuff. I had to blow out the AC condenser and the radiator from the backside with compressed air. It was around 220* on the highway and up to 230* or so in traffic. ![]()
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